For four years with each visit to Il Borgo, I have glanced across the vineyard-lined valley to the hilltop Castle of Poppiano in the distance and said to myself, “Someday I am going to walk to the castle”.  And the day finally came. The early September weather was perfect and the sky crystal clear after the previous day’s rainfall. I consulted a few maps and sought the advice of local friend and property manager Alessandro on how to best reach the castle. He said it is easy, but steep.  That is like saying it is fun yet grueling.  But coming from Arizona, and being the weekend hiking warrior that I was, I though it would be just fine, or at least close to fine.  So I headed out across the field to the dirt farm road that eventually led to the town of Poppiano  and its castle.  Steep was an accurate term… the one lane tractor path the  through the olive trees seemed to head straight down into the damp valley floor. There were a few houses tucked away here and there with not a soul except an occasional overly excited dog making sure everyone in the valley knew I was coming through!    And all I could think of is how am I going to make it back out of here! But on I went, glancing up at the castle as it grew a tiny bit bigger with each hundred yards or so.  I really thought it was closer.  Then I reached the bottom, a dark, lush green tunnel of trees and raspberry vines, the path for a short time turning into a  small creek.  The occasional rustling in the bushes around me kept me at a steady brisk pace.  The rich damp soil clung to the soles of my formerly white pumas… my legs got heavier and this conveniently became my excuse as I rather slowly made my way upward to the other side.  Luckily, the grade was not quite as steep heading up towards the castle…. but the thought of going back the way I came was still haunting me. 

Through another great field of olive trees where men were trimming away unaffected by my presence coming up from the dank valley floor – I made my way to pavement – I had finally reached town! Passing house after house, with dog after dog, I finally reached my destination.  “I did it!” I said to myself with great satisfaction…. well, I did half of it!  I enjoyed my triumph with a celebratory pear on the park bench out front of the castle – I had finally walked to the castle. And it was good. But what is that I smell?  Could it be grape juice?  I glanced over the railing and there were three huge tanks of yes, freshly crushed grapes! I was having a moment!  How perfect!  Now I can go home. And then my phone rang.

 It was Alessandro. Gina, can you make it back for an appointment before noon?  It was 10:30 am and I was doubtful – but I would try. And I would NOT go back up the way I came.  I would cut across the vineyards straight over to the property. How hard can it be? Well, lesson number one: when walking though a vineyard – go between the row of vines that will lead in the direction you need to go because there is no going between them. Lesson number two: make sure at the end of the row of vines, you can get out and you are not in front of a large patch of brier and thorns. By the time I found my way around the thorn bushes, I could have been home via the original route.  Still an uphill climb although not so steep, I stopped to take a break for a sip of water and to absorb the view and realize where I was and how really cool it was. How tranquil and serene. How lush and fertile. Imagining how many years this soil has been bearing the fruit of the fine Chianti wines. I raised the water bottle to my mouth and WHOOSH! out of nowhere – a spooked pheasant flew from right up beside me – I could feel the breeze from its wings on my face as it frantically flapped away. My heart raced! Lesson number three: be aware of your surroundings at all times, especially for critters. 

I made it back to Il Borgo by 11:30 and made it to my appointment on time… and now, whenever I look at the castle in the distance across the valley – in a photo or better yet from my terrace, I say to myself with a  big smile,  “I walked to the castle.”  

Best table in the house!

 We arrived into San Fruttuoso via ferry from Rapallo.  The 100+ passenger ferry softly made its way to shore and we all disembarked via the narrow gankplank.  The site was awesome. The beach was already full as were the restaurants. We put in our name at what looked like the best spot in town, and I think we were right! About an hour later, we went back, spotted a little table for two out on a rock ledge over the slapping waves, and waited patiently for it to be reset.  We started with the best mussels I think I ever had, alongside were the best anchovies I think I ever had, followed by the best pasta with pesto I think I ever had.  Okay, maybe the dreamlike setting had a little to do with the over all experience. But it was truly unforgettable.

Boatman

 After lunch, we made our way over to the “boatman” to catch a  ride out to see the memorial ”Christ of the Abyss” under the sea.  The bronze statue was commissioned in 1954 by a father who lost his son in a diving accident seven years earlier.  The attraction as much as the statue, which we viewed through a giant snorkel, was our buff boatman who was no spring chicken, but in better shape than most half his age!  I think he was quite comfortable in front of the camera. Both were a sight to behold!

San Fruttuoso can also be reached by an excellent trail system coming in from either Camogli or Portofino, so there were many weary hikers relaxing on its comforting shores.  Next time, I thought, I will hike here.  And there will indeed be a next time. 

Viewing Christ of the Abyss

 And the answer is a resounding YES!  Especially when you have an amazing guide as we did. Dott. Vincenzo Riolo showed us around Pisa from Palaces and bridges to Borgo Stretto, the road where history and current trends continue to co-mingle with much grace and fun.  Towards the end of the tour, we visited  (you guessed it) the Leaning Tower.  Without a doubt, the Piazza dei Miracoli or Field (Square) of Miracles is the proud jewel of this city and UNESCO World Heritage Site. We entered from the back  through a quiet piazza away from the  crowds and souvenir stands. What he first pointed out to us, was the magnificent feat of keeping the tower from leaning too much while not straightening it either – that would be disastrous for the local tourism revenue!  The exact counterweights were determined after many years of trial and error and much deliberation between some of the worlds greatest architects and physicists.  Galileo would be proud!        

After we marvelled at the massive and ornate bell tower before us, he then took us to his favorite place, the camposanto or the cemetery.  A most astonishing and sobering glimpse of burial grounds and sarcophagi lining the portico …  and through an amazing and intricate process, the frescoed walls which were so badly burned during WWII  are being brought back to glorious life, little by little.     

 Next, to the Baptistry.  Another most amazing structure in which we were treated to a very special experience; a friar showed us the musical marvel of this stunning architecture.  As he chanted one note and moved onto to the next – the previous note continued to resonate  throughout the chapel. By the time he sang the third note, he had created a lovely chord… and the lovely chord rang out through the air. We felt the bumps on our skin come alive as we all listened in awe.       

By the time we reached the magnificent Duomo, the sun was setting and mass was already in session, but we were still allowed to go inside to gaze at the architectural masterpiece from the entrance.  The memories still come back to treat me every time one of my clients ask me, should we go to Pisa?      

Happy 2010…

The now famous garden grew gradually, between 1925 and 1939. The house is surrounded by a formal Italian garden, which is divided into geometrical ‘rooms’ by box hedges with lemon trees in terracotta pots. Travertine stairs lead to the rose garden and a winding wisteria-covered pergola bordered by lavender hedge. Gentle informal terraces climb up the hill, where cherry trees, pines and cypresses grow among wild broom, thyme and rosemary, and a long cypress avenue leads to a 17th-century stone statue. Through the woods, a path joins the garden and the family cemetery, where Iris’s son Gianni who died at the age of 7 was buried. The cemetery is considered one of architect Cecil Pinsent’s best creations.

During the Nazi occupation of Italy, at considerable personal risk, the Origos turned their farm and villa into a safe haven for children from Genoa and Turin who had lost their homes and families in the bombings. They also helped escaped Allied war prisoners. In “War in Val d’Orcia: An Italian War Diary, 1943 – 1944, Origo chronicles the crises and confusion of anti-fascist resistance at a time when Tuscany was crawling with Nazis.

La Foce: Intersection – a place where paths intervene. Every Wednesday, Benedetta Isadori conducts walking tours of the lovely La Foce Gardens. Although Benedetta is not a blood relation to Iris Origo, her mother lived on la Foce as a child and Benedetta was named after one of Iris’s daughters – truly a life being lived from the heart.

http://www.lafoce.com/

Then we headed to the cellars! These are very cool (literally and figuratively) cantinas.

Then we headed to the “Farm” for a treat of organically grown vegetables and cheeses. It is always one of our best meals. No extra seat needed for this little guy!