For four years with each visit to Il Borgo, I have glanced across the vineyard-lined valley to the hilltop Castle of Poppiano in the distance and said to myself, “Someday I am going to walk to the castle”. And the day finally came. The early September weather was perfect and the sky crystal clear after the previous day’s rainfall. I consulted a few maps and sought the advice of local friend and property manager Alessandro on how to best reach the castle. He said it is easy, but steep. That is like saying it is fun yet grueling. But coming from Arizona, and being the weekend hiking warrior that I was, I though it would be just fine, or at least close to fine. So I headed out across the field to the dirt farm road that eventually led to the town of Poppiano and its castle. Steep was an accurate term… the one lane tractor path the through the olive trees seemed to head straight down into the damp valley floor. There were a few houses tucked away here and there with not a soul except an occasional overly excited dog making sure everyone in the valley knew I was coming through! And all I could think of is how am I going to make it back out of here! But on I went, glancing up at the castle as it grew a tiny bit bigger with each hundred yards or so. I really thought it was closer. Then I reached the bottom, a dark, lush green tunnel of trees and raspberry vines, the path for a short time turning into a small creek. The occasional rustling in the bushes around me kept me at a steady brisk pace. The rich damp soil clung to the soles of my formerly white pumas… my legs got heavier and this conveniently became my excuse as I rather slowly made my way upward to the other side. Luckily, the grade was not quite as steep heading up towards the castle…. but the thought of going back the way I came was still haunting me. 
Through another great field of olive trees where men were trimming away unaffected by my presence coming up from the dank valley floor – I made my way to pavement – I had finally reached town! Passing house after house, with dog after dog, I finally reached my destination. “I did it!” I said to myself with great satisfaction…. well, I did half of it! I enjoyed my triumph with a celebratory pear on the park bench out front of the castle – I had finally walked to the castle. And it was good. But what is that I smell? Could it be grape juice? I glanced over the railing and there were three huge tanks of yes, freshly crushed grapes! I was having a moment! How perfect! Now I can go home. And then my phone rang.
It was Alessandro. Gina, can you make it back for an appointment before noon? It was 10:30 am and I was doubtful – but I would try. And I would NOT go back up the way I came. I would cut across the vineyards straight over to the property. How hard can it be? Well, lesson number one: when walking though a vineyard – go between the row of vines that will lead in the direction you need to go because there is no going between them. Lesson number two: make sure at the end of the row of vines, you can get out and you are not in front of a large patch of brier and thorns. By the time I found my way around the thorn bushes, I could have been home via the original route. Still an uphill climb although not so steep, I stopped to take a break for a sip of water and to absorb the view and realize where I was and how really cool it was.
How tranquil and serene. How lush and fertile. Imagining how many years this soil has been bearing the fruit of the fine Chianti wines. I raised the water bottle to my mouth and WHOOSH! out of nowhere – a spooked pheasant flew from right up beside me – I could feel the breeze from its wings on my face as it frantically flapped away. My heart raced! Lesson number three: be aware of your surroundings at all times, especially for critters.
I made it back to Il Borgo by 11:30 and made it to my appointment on time… and now, whenever I look at the castle in the distance across the valley – in a photo or better yet from my terrace, I say to myself with a big smile, “I walked to the castle.”
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