San Fruttuoso

Tucked away in the far end of the peninsula which is home to such grand seaside destinations such as Portofino, Santa Margherita and Rapallo, lies  a grand 13th century Monastery and Tower next to a 10th century church, with a fabulous beach and excellent trattorias all overseen by the watchful graces of Christ of the Abyss from 150 yards off shore and 50 feet under the sea.  

 We arrived into San Fruttuoso via ferry from Rapallo.  The 100+ passenger ferry softly made its way to shore and we all disembarked via the narrow gankplank.  The site was awesome. The beach was already full as were the restaurants. We put in our name at what looked like the best spot in town, and I think we were right! About an hour later, we went back, spotted a little table for two out on a rock ledge over the slapping waves, and waited patiently for it to be reset.  We started with the best mussels I think I ever had, alongside were the best anchovies I think I ever had, followed by the best pasta with pesto I think I ever had.  Okay, maybe the dreamlike setting had a little to do with the over all experience. But it was truly unforgettable.

 After lunch, we made our way over to the “boatman” to catch a  ride out to see the memorial ”Christ of the Abyss” under the sea.  The bronze statue was commissioned in 1954 by a father who lost his son in a diving accident seven years earlier.  The attraction as much as the statue, which we viewed through a giant snorkel, was our buff boatman who was no spring chicken, but in better shape than most half his age!  I think he was quite comfortable in front of the camera. Both were a sight to behold!

San Fruttuoso can also be reached by an excellent trail system coming in from either Camogli or Portofino, so there were many weary hikers relaxing on its comforting shores.  Next time, I thought, I will hike here.  And there will indeed be a next time.